What a punch list is, and how to make a good one before closing

The punch list is the one document from closing week that you write. It is also the one that decides which cosmetic problems the builder fixes for free.

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A punch list is the written list of defects, unfinished work, and items that do not match the plans, made during the final walkthrough of a new home and signed by the builder as the work they agree to complete. It is the buyer's document. What is on it, the builder fixes at no cost; what is left off it, especially anything cosmetic, is often treated after closing as damage the owner caused.

The name comes from the old practice of punching a hole in the paper next to each item as it was completed. The practice is the same today; the paper is usually a form the builder supplies, and increasingly an app. Either way the rules are the same: be thorough, be specific, get a signed copy, and keep it with the house for good.

Why it matters more than it looks

Two things ride on the punch list. The first is the obvious one: a scratched countertop, a chipped tub, a paint run, a door that rubs, a window screen with a tear. These are cosmetic, they are exactly the items most warranty documents exclude after closing, and they are fixed for free only if they are on the list. The second is less obvious: the list is evidence. Items on it establish that a problem existed on delivery. If a cosmetic crack you noted turns into a wider one in year two, the punch list is the dated record that it started before you moved in. The warranty timeline explains how those dates play out.

How the walkthrough works

Most builders schedule a walkthrough a few days before closing. A representative (often the construction superintendent) walks the house with you, demonstrates the systems, and records the items you point out. A good walkthrough takes two hours or more. Do not let it be rushed into thirty minutes; if the builder's representative has another appointment, reschedule.

Bring:

  • A copy of the plans and the selection sheet (the finishes, fixtures, and options you chose) to check that what was built is what you bought
  • A plug-in outlet tester, a small level, a flashlight, a tape measure, and painter's tape to flag items
  • A phone for photos of every item, with the room in the frame
  • A second person; two sets of eyes find twice as much
  • Your independent inspector's report, if you had one

Ask the representative to demonstrate every system: the HVAC and thermostat, the water heater, the electrical panel and where each breaker goes, the main water shutoff, the gas shutoff, the irrigation controller, the garage door and its safety reverse, every appliance. Photograph the labels on every piece of equipment while you are in front of it; that is the start of the home record.

The room-by-room list

Look at every surface in raking light (a flashlight held at a low angle to the wall shows dents and drywall flaws that overhead light hides). In each room:

  • Walls and ceilings: dents, nail pops, visible seams, paint runs, missed spots, texture mismatches, cracks
  • Floors: scratches, gaps, squeaks, loose tiles (tap them), grout cracks, carpet seams and stretch, transitions between floor types
  • Doors: swing freely, latch, lock, do not rub; hardware tight; weatherstripping intact on exterior doors
  • Windows: open, close, lock; screens present and intact; no cracked glass or failed seals (fogging); caulk complete inside and out
  • Trim: gaps at joints, nail holes filled, caulk complete, paint complete
  • Outlets and switches: every outlet tested with the plug-in tester; every switch does something; cover plates straight
  • Lights and fans: every fixture works; fans balanced
  • Cabinets and drawers: open and close, doors aligned, no chips, hardware tight, shelves present
  • Counters: chips, scratches, seams, level, caulk at the backsplash and sink
  • Plumbing: every faucet runs hot and cold with good pressure, every drain drains, every toilet flushes and refills and does not run, no drips under sinks, tub and shower surfaces unchipped, shower doors seal
  • Appliances: run each one through a cycle; check that the model matches the selection sheet
  • Closets: shelves and rods present and secure

Exterior: siding and trim complete, caulk at every joint and penetration, paint complete, gutters and downspouts attached with extensions in place, grading sloping away from the house, driveway and walks uncracked, garage door and opener working, exterior lights and outlets working, hose bibs working, landscaping and sod as specified, roof visually complete from the ground, attic (with the flashlight) for daylight, insulation coverage, and debris.

Writing items so they get fixed

Every item needs a location, a description, and a photo: "Primary bath, tile floor, cracked tile second row from the tub" fixes itself; "bathroom tile" starts an argument. Number the items. Flag each one with painter's tape so the trades can find it. Ask the representative to read the list back and sign it, and get a copy before you leave; if it is in an app, screenshot or export the signed version. Ask for the completion date for the punch-list work in writing.

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File the signed punch list with the closing documents the same day, and put the photos with it. This is the first document in the home record and the one most often lost by year two. The closing-day document list is where it belongs.

After the walkthrough

Punch-list work often continues after closing; the contract says how long the builder has. Keep the list and check items off yourself as they are completed. When the builder says it is done, walk it again with the list. Items that were fixed badly go back on. Items that were missed get a written note with a date.

Then the list changes jobs. It becomes the baseline for the warranty period: the record of what the house looked like on delivery, against which the settling cracks, the nail pops, and the door rubs of the first year are measured. Combine it with the first-year inspection described in the maintenance schedule for a new build, and the two documents together are most of what a warranty claim needs.

Common questions

Can I refuse to close until the punch list is done?

That depends on your contract. Many purchase agreements let the builder complete punch-list items after closing within a stated period, and some lenders will not fund with major items open. Read the contract, and for anything that affects safety, water, or the ability to live in the house, talk to your closing attorney or agent before signing.

What is the difference between the punch list and a warranty claim?

The punch list is made before or at closing and covers what was incomplete or defective on delivery. Warranty claims cover defects that appear after closing, during the warranty windows. A cosmetic problem you did not put on the punch list is often treated as owner damage later, so the list is your only chance for those items.

Should I hire an inspector for a new house?

Many buyers do, and it is money well spent. An independent inspector at the pre-drywall stage and again before the walkthrough finds things a buyer will not, and gives you a written report to attach to the punch list. The builder's own inspections are not a substitute; they work for the builder.

What to do next

Print the room-by-room list above and take it to the walkthrough. Then read how to read the builder warranty, because the document that governs everything after the punch list is one most buyers have never opened.